The Forgotten Legacy: The Devastation of Bangladesh's Luxury Textile Industry as a Result of Colonialism
For centuries, Bangladesh was renowned for its exquisite textiles, particularly muslin, a delicate and luxurious fabric that appealed to nobility and traders worldwide. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, Dhaka was the epicenter of muslin production, thanks to the Mughal Empire's propelling it into the global forefront.

For centuries, Bangladesh was renowned for its exquisite textiles, particularly muslin, a delicate and luxurious fabric that appealed to nobility and traders worldwide. Between the 17th and 18th centuries, Dhaka was the epicenter of muslin production, thanks to the Mughal Empire's propelling it into the global forefront.
Bengal's muslin industry, which was at its height, was responsible for the production of exquisite handwoven fabrics that could pass through a ring. This industry employed tens of thousands of artisans. Nevertheless, the industry's lamentable decline was precipitated by the systematic dismantling of this thriving craft during British colonial rule, which emphasized mass production over artisanal expertise.
The British East India Company's subjugation of Bengal in the mid-18th century initiated the decline of muslin. Local production was significantly impacted by colonial policies, as reports suggest that British officials forcibly relocated weavers to English factories to manufacture textiles in severe conditions. Historical accounts even indicate that certain artisans mutilated their own thumbs in order to evade compelled labor. In addition to this exploitation, Britain implemented substantial tariffs on Indian textiles and simultaneously oversaturated the market with inexpensive, machine-made fabric from its Industrial Revolution-era manufacturers. Muslin production in Dhaka had been entirely eradicated by the mid-19th century, thereby severing Bangladesh's profound connection to its luxury textile heritage.
Bangladesh is currently the second-largest exporter of ready-made garments in the world, following only China. Approximately 4 million individuals are employed in the garment sector of the nation, with 85 percent of them being women. Nevertheless, the exploitative nature of the industry is exposed by the hazardous conditions and factory disasters, such as the 2013 Rana Plaza collapse, which resulted in the deaths of over 1,100 people, while these workers earn an average of only $120 per month. A system that is eerily reminiscent of colonial-era exploitation, the fast fashion sector flourishes on cheap labor and mass production, where profit surpasses the value of craftsmanship and the well-being of workers.
Bibi Russell, a prominent model and designer, is spearheading initiatives to revitalize Bangladesh's textile industry, despite the obstacles it faces. She promotes the "defashion" movement, which calls for a transition from disposable rapid fashion to sustainable, ethical practices. Bangladesh has an opportunity to recapture its legacy as an innovator in ethical fashion, rather than as a victim of colonial economic policies, as a result of the growing global awareness of sustainability. By prioritizing quality over quantity and investing in local artisans, the industry could be transformed, thereby reestablishing Bangladesh as a global leader in exquisite craftsmanship and restoring dignity to textile workers.